Nomad Saikat
Riding the Dream: My Ultimate 21-Day Kolkata to Ladakh Itinerary
We all have that one dream tucked away in our hearts. For those of us who live to ride, it’s the journey from the sweltering streets of Kolkata to the thin, crisp air of Ladakh. I know what you’re thinking—is it possible for someone with a regular job and a family? The answer is a resounding yes, but you need an indomitable will and a rock-solid plan.
Based on my experience and the route I’ve mapped out, here is how you can conquer the roof of the world in 21 days.
The Long Haul: Getting to the Mountains
The first few days are all about endurance. My biggest piece of advice? Never ride at night. Start your engines by 4:00 or 4:30 AM every single day so you can reach your destination by evening.
- Day 1 & 2: Push from Kolkata to Aurangabad/Dehri (~510-530 km) and then on to Kanpur. Use these days to build a “bond” with your bike; riding for 12 hours straight is a different ball game than city commuting.
- Day 3 & 4: Head toward Agra. If you haven’t seen the Taj Mahal, take a breather here. From there, navigate the heavy office traffic of Delhi to reach Chandigarh.
- Day 5: This is where the air starts to change as you climb toward Manali. You’ll have crossed six states by now, so treat yourself to a walk down Mall Road.
Entering the High Altitude Zone
From Manali, the real test begins.
- Day 6: Manali to Sarchu. This is a critical day. Before you head through the Atal Tunnel, make sure your extra fuel cans are empty, as they aren’t allowed inside. Once you hit Tandi, fill up everything. There is no petrol for the next 365 km. Stay in a tent at Sarchu (14,000 ft), but don’t go to sleep immediately—spend a few hours talking and moving to help your body acclimate.
- Day 7: Sarchu to Leh. You’ll face the legendary Gata Loops (21 hairpin bends) and the surreal More Plains, a 35 km stretch of road that feels like you’re riding on the roof of the world.
Complete Manali to Manali Route Map :
The “Golden Rule” of Leh
When you arrive in Leh on Day 7, you cannot just head out the next morning. Government rules require a 48-hour stay in Leh for acclimatization before you can get permits for higher areas. Use Day 8 to explore the local market or Shanti Stupa.
The Highlights: Nubra, Pangong, and the World’s Highest Pass
- Nubra Valley (Days 9-11): Cross Khardung La and head to Hunder to see the white sand dunes and double-humped camels. If you have time, visit Turtuk, the last village near the Indo-Pak border.
- Pangong Lake (Day 12): Leave by 7:00 AM. You have to cross the Shyok River, and if you wait until the afternoon, the melting glacial water makes the river crossings dangerous for bikes.
- Umling La (Day 13-14): Ride from Pangong to Hanle. From there, attempt Umling La, the highest motorable pass in the world. Pro-tip: Leave your heavy luggage at the hotel in Hanle; your bike will thank you when you’re struggling for power in the thin air.
- Tso Moriri (Day 15): Visit the stunning Karzok village before beginning the long ride home.
Survival Kit: Permits and Health
Don’t let paperwork ruin your trip. You need a Manali Green Tax permit (₹100) and a Ladakh Inner Line Permit (~₹400). Apply for these online and keep at least 5 hard copies in an easy-access bag.
For your health, the sources recommend 2-3 liters of water daily to fight Altitude Sickness (AMS). Many riders take Diamox (250mg), but please, consult your doctor first. Also, don’t overeat at night in high altitudes; your digestion slows down up there.
A Note on Navigation
In the mountains, Google Maps is not your friend. Signals drop, and routes change. Trust the physical signboards and don’t be afraid to ask the Army personnel for directions—they are the best guides you’ll find.
While this plan is for 21 days, I highly suggest keeping 2-3 extra “buffer days” for road closures or rest, making it a 24-day journey if possible.
Analogy for Acclimatization: Think of your body like a vintage engine being tuned for a high-altitude race. If you floor the accelerator (climb) too fast without adjusting the fuel-to-air ratio (resting in Leh), the engine will sputter and stall. Giving yourself those 48 hours in Leh is like letting a mechanic fine-tune your system so you can run smoothly at the top.
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